Journal · Published
West of Limuru, the land suddenly falls away into the Great Rift Valley. The old road down the escarpment to Mai Mahiu has some of the most dramatic roadside views in Kenya, and at the bottom stands one of the country's smallest churches, built by Italian prisoners of war. Both make an easy detour from Tigoni.
The viewpoints
Along the old Nairobi–Naivasha road (C88), several roadside terraces look out over the floor of the Rift Valley, with Mount Longonot and Mount Suswa on the horizon on a clear day. The most popular stops have curio stalls selling carvings, baskets and souvenirs, and a painted sign giving the altitude at around 2,140 metres.
Mornings are usually the clearest. By afternoon, haze often softens the view.
Tips at the viewpoint
- Pull over only at the designated viewpoints; the road is busy with lorries.
- Expect friendly but persistent sales pitches at the stalls; a polite 'no, thank you' is fine.
- Agree prices before buying.
- Keep an eye on children near the edge.
The road built by prisoners of war
The escarpment road was built during the Second World War by Italian prisoners of war held in British East Africa. Working in difficult conditions, they cut the road down the steep valley wall, and it is still in use today.
The Italian chapel
In 1942, while building the road, the prisoners asked permission to build a place of worship. The result is a tiny stone Catholic chapel at the foot of the escarpment near Mai Mahiu, completed towards the end of 1942. It is reported to be about 15 by 8 feet, with room for only around a dozen people, and is often described as the smallest church in East Africa. It is now a national monument and a quiet stop for travellers on the busy road.
Combining it with Tigoni
From Tigoni, drive west via Limuru to join the old Naivasha road and the viewpoints. Spend the morning on a ride or walk in the tea, have lunch, then drive down in the afternoon, or reverse it and start with the views while the morning air is clear.
